Each Chef Should Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.